Smooth Sailing

I was so lucky with the weather when I crossed the Irish Sea, which can be quite rough. When I woke up in the morning I was able to take a local bus to the PandO Bus and that bus takes you to the PandO ferry terminal in Cairnryan to Larne in Ireland. It was cold and windy with white caps but the ferry was huge and had stabilizers so was quite steady. I had some tomato basil soup aboard - v. civilized.

 

So, off the ship and on to Belfast. Northern Ireland is so very different from Southern Ireland, otherwise known as the Irish Republic. Everywhere you go in Northern Ireland, and particularly in Belfast, there are signs of "The Troubles."  There are murals everywhere, very moving - many are tributes to those murdered by what the locals call the "extremists" and there is a tall tall tall chain fence that goes forever, what they call the "peace fence" between the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. There is still evidence of bomb blasts and bullets and although peace is extolled, there is plenty of evidence that violence could erupt at any moment. There are signs everywhere of just what type of neighborhood you are in, the curbs painted with stripes of red, white and blue (the unionists) or green, white and orange (the nationalists) with their respective flags flying off of the light poles and buildings. It is so very very sad. All this senseless violence in the name of religion, but what else is new in this world? I'm afraid I have very few pictures in Belfast. I was so appalled by what I saw here. The division of these poor neighborhoods. It wasn't the well to do that suffered but the lower class and the signs are everywhere.

I stayed at a lovely hotel in Belfast, The Europa. The view from my room? Not so lovely.  Here it is:

Well, at least I had a sliver of natural light.

 Found out the next morning that The Europa in Belfast is the most bombed hotel in the world. oy  Can't complain though - fresh berries for breakfast!! 

Next up: The Giant's Causeway, Derry and a camel on his hunkers!

I spent a day and evening soaking up Edinburgh. It is a huge and old and vibrant city. Everyone is very H&T (and how these women walk in 6-inch heels on the old cobblestones is beyond me.)  I started with a hike up Calton Hill, the  park above Hollyrood. I could not get near Hollyrood because Prince Charles was in residence and law enforcement was everywhere. This is a picture looking a bit east of the north sea and you can see Edinburgh Castle in the far distance. From another aspect, you can see the firth of Forth.

Off I went to the castle, where I signed on with a guide.  This, ladies and gentlemen, is Richard and he was AWESOME! (Plus, looked really good in his kilt.)

So, Edinburgh Castle includes the oldest building in Edinburgh, St. Margaret's Chapel, which was constructed in the 12th century! Richard threw out dates like they were yesterday, oh David's Tower, Robert the Bruce's son was built in the 1370's, and, oh yeah the great hall of James IV opened in 1511. Well, the mind boggles. Nobody really lived here anymore after the mid-1600's when the royals moved to England.  Here are some pictures of the castle:

      

  This is St. Margaret's. Still beautiful after a few centuries, a bit dark, but what I liked best, is that just beyond it, is a tiny graveyard for the dogs in the service of the royal guards throughout the ages (photo didn't come out, darn it, small plaques to King and Duke and Lad, etc.)

 

OK, I must say this is the slowest connection I've had since arriving across the pond, so forgive me for not being more thorough. The pictures are taking all of my time. 

So, just a few more from my evening in Edinburgh. Had to walk a couple of miles to this Scottish Evening, but it was worth it - and no, I didn't do it in 6-inch heels, so no problem really.
This guy was hilarious. I met him early on and it turned out he was the MC of the evening. (some kind of optical illusion thing going on with my b00b here, I don't know ...)

Here is the piper who piped everyone in to the dinner theatre. He was so funny and I know that because he and I had a "wee dram" towards the end of the show when I had to get out of that hall and found him out in the lounge. . . hard to understand but very dry humor and loves having this gig. He used to be in the military service as a piper and I can't at this moment for the life of me remember his name.

 This is the band leader and the picture is bad because it was dark in there. He was awesome! The MC kept saying, "KNEES" as in put your knees together dude, you're in a kilt! "KNEES". Then they'd all laugh hysterically.  V. cute. They did the traditional worshipping of the haggis - cutting open the stomach, etc. so gross, and served everybody up a wee bit - and it was very funny but must admit, mine went directly into my coffee cup. So, Haggis, Neeps and Tatties. Scottish for gross organ meat, mashed turnips and potatoes. There you have it. Lots of root veggies and left over parts in this national dish and the locals love it. no comment

The dancers were wonderful - there was also a boy and he was great but my picture didn't come out very well. I met him in the lounge along with Gordon - Gordon! That's his name! Turns out he (the dancer) is actually 26, has been doing this review for 10 years and works as a mechanic days. Good for him.

So much more to see in Scotland - Sarah, I will come back and see Sterling, ride the West Highland Line and go to the Isle of Skye some day.

Tomorrow, I'll tell you about the trip across the Irish Sea and staying in the most bombed hotel in the world in Belfast (and no I didn't find that out until the next morning.)

Tha gaol agam ort,

Lizzie Alone

Almost forgot: Flying butts?  Well, they're bats flying around the castle! But do you know what a camel on his hunkers pertains to? (hint: when it comes to the Giant's Causeway) I'll tell you tomorrow.

Tonight I am safely ensconced in the Hotel Europa in downtown Belfast after crossing the Irish Sea this afternoon but I'll play catch up for a moment. I wanted to tell you about Blair Castle, which was simply divine. Here it is:

And it is amazing. This is only the part that would fit in my camera lens. There are 30 rooms of seven centuries of pictures and furniture and linens and treasures and more antlers than you could possibly ever see in a lifetime (unless you bombed a huge herd of deer or something.  I guess.) Anyhoo, it was just gorgeous and I'll tell you it spoiled me for Edinburgh castle which has NO furnishings and sorry but the crown jewels are somewhat pathetic (like a crown, a necklace, a sword and the Stone of Scone which looks like a hunk of concrete with some iron handles stuck in it. Hello?? I know I know I am such a cretin...) So, Blair Castle is unique in that it is white. Really beautiful and the grounds are amazing, acres and acres of gorgeous mature trees - lots of Larch - flowers, creeks (like below); with ancient origins in celtic times. We're talking 1600's. Cromwell had a go at it then and later on the Jacobites.  Peacocks roam the grounds (look that this stupid show-off male - but don't get me started . . . )

Spent the morning here and then stopped in a cute little town called Pitlochery for a lovely bruchetta with mozarella, basil and tomato for lunch. Lovely.

(May I just say how much blogspot SUCKS with the freaking underlines and colors, etc. Drives me nutz!)

Ok, with that out of my system, I want to show you Edradour Distillery, which I toured after I went to the castle. Blair Athol, where the castle is, has a distillery but it was closed for refurbishment. Well, I came across Edradour out in the middle of nowhere and it's claim to fame is "Scotland's Smallest Distillery". It was so wonderful. Picturesque, friendly, interesting, beautiful, I can't say enough good about it. Leo showed me around. He is just 18 and what a sweetie. So, here are some pics:

Here is where this guy sweeps up the malt left behind, standing in a huge wooden vat inside, and it blows into this trailer to become cattle feed (for those airy coos!)

They also make the most wonderful liqueur from their whiskey and the local cream and no, I did not buy any. I managed to restrain myself but only barely. Jeez, now I wish I had. (Sorry Rita - you would've loved it!)

Here is Leo welcoming guests.

So I had dinner - fiery curry in an Indian restaurant tonight - and now I'm off to bed. Still way behind in my travels on the blog, so maybe tomorrow I'll tell you about Edinburgh, the castle, the shopping and the Haggis, Neeps and Tatties!!

btw, I never followed up on the numbered bagels (license plates on vehicles), the stone tars (towers) and did I tell you about the fain daining? I think I did tell you about the slit rooves, right?

 Slan agat from Lizzie Alone

OK, sorry but I lost my %@**&f-ing adaptor - must have left it plugged in somewhere when I unplugged my laptop. I had the chance to buy another one here in Edinburgh (at Boots, dontcha know) today so I'm back in business.  anyhoo . . . where was I?
Oh yeah, Inverness. But, hold the phone! I have to show you a bit more of Loch Ness and the Highlands. So beautiful!

This is the river/canal I went out of on the boat I'll show you next. Above this waterway (and yes I do have pictures, but honestly how many pictures do I have to upload and show you people? Use your imaginations for heavens sakes) are a series of locks, about four of them and very cool and if you want to see them, email me and I'll send you the pics. 

Alrighty then, moving right along, here is the boat I took, and he was v. comfy and the guide most informative. OMG, did you know that Loch (meaning Lake) Ness is more than 750 deep feet in places? Loch Lomond is bigger in surface but Loch Ness beats that puny Loch Lomond in volume, it is Loch Ness which is vast.

So, the monster, Nessie. Yes, my friends, I did get a picture and here it is:

How cool is this?????  I really did snap this picture and I did nothing to adjust my camera or the view or anything but more on that later . .

This last shot is of the lake itself, and how beautiful. It reminds me of Moosehead in Maine, as you can pull a deep draft boat right up next to these steep slopes, and know there is at least that much of a mountain under the water. Awesome, right?

So, ok, while the trip on the Loch Ness is totally cool and they have sonar and JLT (junk like that), that picture of Nessie is actually some kid who drew her in magic marker on the window, so when you take a picture of the Loch, she is superimposed. Quite clever, I thought.
OK, here I am on the way to Inverness. I asked a man to take my picture in front of the "three sisters" mountains. I thought, yeah well I'm one of three sisters - cool pic.  OK, call me picky... but hello? Could we have seen a bit of the mountains - like the tops of at least one maybe? Here I am anyway in all my glory (and in my new red raincoat. Had to buy it last minute in Boston with my mum because I left mine at home - cute, right?)

Here is Inverness. Beautiful little city. Got in late, woke up at 5am, strolled past all of the lovely coffee houses: CLOSED! These people are late risers, let me tell you. Here is where I stayed and it was a bit modest but clean enough. I will tell you though, if you are planning to stay here, beware the shower curtain, because it will want to wetly devour you and you will spend the entire time fending it off. Anyway, here is the Hotel Columba and it was completely adequate for a night's sleep and a greasy breakfast. I liked that it was old(e) and on the river.

Here are a few more photos of Inverness - granted they're before 6am but it was kind of nice getting the flavor of the city before it filled up. (would have been nice if the coffee shops opened at a civilized time though...)

Have to admit, I found an iron gate to a churchyard open a wee bit and perused this very auld graveyard, so peaceful and just a touch spooky . .

 Beautiful little city and I trust I will spend more time there some day.



OMG, I almost forgot about the airy coos!  OK, here is one. Could not figure out what a airy coo was but of course, all became clear when I learned that that they were nae fer eatin' but fer shoe.  Yes, they are shoe coos.  (So, if you are still in the dark, they are highland cattle who are used not for meat, but for show. For which I'm glad because I'd hate to expend all of that brain power over something that was going to be slaughtered in the end!) Must admit, they are kinda cute in their own way.

So, sorry for the long and boring post and I am still behind by days. I am writing from Edinburgh tonight and will fill you in tomorrow but before I turn in tonight I would like to give a shout out to Ivan, who not only set me up with a gaited ter at the castle today, but also suggested a place for fain dainin tonight! Remind me to tell you about the flying butts tomorrow . . .

I am going to find a bus to wherever the ferry goes to Northern Ireland tomorrow. Not even thinking about how to do that until the a.m.  Just want to say in closing: it is 10:15pm right now and the birds are singing in the sunlight. However,

Tha an uair agad a dhol a chadal.

(Time for sleep)

Love, LizzieAlone

I spent my first day in Glasgow madly trying to cram in as much as possible. Some highlights: A few hours at Kelvingrove Museum. Here it is and here is one of my fave exhibits: Check out the heads! I stayed at the Thistle, right in the theatre district and shopping?  OMG the shopping - no time though so I satisfied myself with window shopping

and, well just one trip to Marks and Spencer, of course. Well, OK, two. This picture is a side picture of the place because when I asked about how to get in (more than once) I was told to go take the ma in gits. What? The ma in gits. What? well, you probably get it - the Main Gates!  (I figured it out like way after the fact.)
All of the museums in Scotland are free. Isn't that awesome? Stopped in at the Buchanan Galleries, right down from my hotel and checked out the Gallery of Modern Art.  So, this morning, I took a bus -I didn't have the guts to take on the Highlands in a rental car and I was right - curvy tight hedge rows and corners. It was fun though AND informative and I got off in a little village called Luss. So pretty:

and right on Loch Lomond,  

 Back on the bus thru the highlands and I have arrived Inverness and want to go to dinner so I'll tell you more tomorrow all about the airy coos, the numbers on the bagels and the stone tars. Saw a lot of them from the cooch! Also about my cruise on Loch Ness and Nessie herself (and check it out: there is a lesser known monster in Loch Lochy named Lizzie!)

Guid night an sweit dreams, Lizzie Alone

Then, last night I got on an airplane for Dublin, skipping on to Glasgow and arriving this morning.  Glasgow is amazing! More tomorrow.

Today is my 25th (and final) wedding anniversary. Here I am looking a bit jet lagged while I check into The Thistle here in Glasgow.

I had a wonderful visit with my family. I felt wrapped up in their love. Here we are: